Paris Couture Week Spring/Summer 2026 arrived in a city gripped by a strange and beautiful tension. It was a week where the industry’s most storied houses faced new horizons. Daniel Roseberry at Schiaparelli reminded us that while the mundane world demands practicality, this space belongs to the indulgent. His Monday morning show served as a necessary jolt to the collective consciousness. It set a standard for the days that followed.
The runway featured feathered jackets with wings soaring a foot high. It was a study in mythological proportions and neon splashes.
At Chanel, the debut of Matthieu Blazy marked a shift toward a profound and almost ghostly lightness. He utilized silk mousseline to create garments that floated like memories of the house’s past. There were transparent pieces and suits ornamented with layers of feathers that suggested movement rather than structure. It was a collection that valued the labor of simplicity. Blazy stripped back the familiar codes to put the body first.
Stephanie Cavalli opened the show with her natural grey hair.
This was not a statement about age but an embrace of authenticity within the high-gloss world of couture. Even A$AP Rocky was seen on the front row with silver strands peeking through his braids. It signaled a shift in what the global elite now considers aspirational. The focus has moved from camouflage to a raw and refined elegance. The clothes were easy but the construction was undeniably complex.
Jonathan Anderson faced a different kind of pressure during his debut at Dior. He termed his collection a Wunderkammer or a cabinet of curiosities. This was not a mere collection of objects. It was a series of highly clarified silhouettes. We saw bulbous gowns and layers that slithered and puffed around the frame. Anderson used jewelry shaped like cyclamen flowers and miniature portraits turned into brooches to anchor his vision.
The presence of John Galliano and Jean Paul Gaultier in the front row felt like a baton passing.
Anderson is a designer who knows how to make extreme clothing pop. However, some of his silhouettes relied on skeleton-like structures that abstracted the body. It was a cerebral approach that divided the audience. Some critics felt he should focus more on the female form. Yet, couture is often about the rejection of the standard human shape. It is a lab for ideas that will eventually trickle down into the wider market.
The market in 2026 is navigating a tougher luxury backdrop. Craft and operational clarity are the tools designers are using to cut through the noise.
Alessandro Michele at Valentino explored the collision of reality and fantasy through a cinematic lens. He staged his collection in nooks inspired by the kaiser panorama. This was a precursor to cinema where viewers stared into a contraption displaying slides. The clothes recalled the 1930s excesses of Hollywood costume. There were batwing sleeves and feathered headdresses that felt more like role-play than identity. It was transportive in the way a black and white romance film can be.
The collection was a dream built with concrete things.
Michele’s return to the couture stage was also marked by a sense of loss. This was the first Valentino collection shown since the passing of the founder, Valentino Garavani, earlier this month. Similarly, Armani Privé held its first show after the death of Giorgio Armani. These moments of mourning gave the week a weight that balanced the whimsical theatricality of the runways. Legends were remembered even as new guards took their places.
Beauty trends this season were equally experimental. We saw hair used as clothing at Charlie Le Mindu and Ashi Studios.
At Viktor & Rolf, the theatricality reached a literal high point. A model was dressed in real time like a kite and then lifted by cables to float above the crowd. It was a feat that earned a standing ovation. Meanwhile, makeup artist Ana Takahashi introduced above-the-brow blush. This face-framing technique was seen on both the runway and celebrities like Jodie Turner-Smith and Taraji P. Henson. It was a week where every detail was designed to provoke a reaction.
The verdict for Spring/Summer 2026 is one of transition and bravery.
The industry is moving away from the safety of the last decade. Designers like Blazy and Anderson are yanking the business of extraordinary clothes into the present. They are doing so with a sense of responsibility and gratitude. While the rest of the year may be for reality, these few days in Paris proved that fantasy is still the most powerful currency in fashion. The dream is over once the lights go up, but the impact of these silhouettes will remain.
Frequently Asked Questions
Who made their couture debuts during Paris Couture Week 2026?
Matthieu Blazy made his debut at Chanel, while Jonathan Anderson presented his first couture collection for Dior. Both designers brought millennial perspectives and cerebral approaches to these historic houses.
What was the theme of Jonathan Anderson's first Dior couture collection?
The collection was titled Wunderkammer, which translates to a cabinet of curiosities. It featured bulbous silhouettes, cyclamen-inspired jewelry, and miniature portraits used as brooches.
How did Schiaparelli open the Spring/Summer 2026 couture season?
Daniel Roseberry opened the week with a collection focused on fantasy and indulgence. Key pieces included jackets with foot-high feathered wings and designs featuring horns and neon accents.
Which legendary designers were honored during this couture week?
The fashion world remembered Giorgio Armani and Valentino Garavani. Both designers passed away earlier in the month, making their respective brand shows a poignant tribute to their legacies.
What were the major beauty trends seen on the runways?
Key trends included above-the-brow blush, hair used as actual clothing or accents, and prominent fringes or bangs. Natural grey hair also made a significant impact at the Chanel show.
What was the most theatrical moment of the week?
The most theatrical moment occurred at Viktor & Rolf. A model was dressed as a kite and lifted by cables to float above the audience during the show.
Did any famous figures attend the Dior show despite past controversies?
John Galliano attended the Dior show as a guest of Jonathan Anderson. His presence was seen by many as a significant moment of baton-passing within the industry.
What materials were unexpectedly prominent in the 2026 collections?
Despite a general industry shift away from the material, fur appeared in several collections. It was seen in the form of large coats, collars, and skirt trims at shows like Dior and Chanel.
